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As soon as I landed in El Paso, I wanted to get as close as I could to the point where Texas ends and Mexico begins. On previous trips I’d wound my way up Scenic Drive to Murchison Park, a popular lookout point embedded in the base of the Franklin Mountains, to peer through the coin-operated binoculars and survey the cities below: El Paso, an underappreciated metropolis of nearly 700,000, and Ciudad Juárez, with its 1.3 million inhabitants, the Rio Grande laid out between them as imprecisely as a stretch of tape meant to divide a bedroom shared by territorial siblings.But this time I wanted to stand face-to-face with the rust-colored metal fence that rises high along a portion of El Paso’s southwestern edge. I…
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