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Our destination a rustic, isolated but decidedly unthreatening cabin in the woods, a friend and I headed east from Austin for a weekend at La Paz, an aptly named bed-and-breakfast perched on the banks of the Angelina River, a bit northwest of Jasper. As the vexations of the city grew faint in our rearview mirror, we laughed our way through 265 miles of the kinds of roadside diversions that enliven any car trip across Texas—an enthusiastic nut purveyor (“If your wife thinks you’re a geezer take some nuts home that’ll please her”), a dilapidated building just begging for trespassers with the huge, crudely scrawled warning “No Stoping!!!” Soon enough, though, we had passed into the majestic stillness of the Angelina National Forest, where towering conifers…
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