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This article was updated on February 12, 2018. While visiting Alpine for the first time, a friend recently proclaimed that the West Texas town was her new Marfa. At first, I was a touch indignant. Alpine, I harrumphed, is decidedly not Marfa, that overly ballyhooed hub 25 miles down the road where an international see-and-be-seen crowd comes to prostrate themselves before minimalist art and fight Hunger Games–style for dinner reservations. And then I cooled (and silently apologized to Marfa, a place I’d never pass up a chance to visit) and said what I meant to say: that Alpine, like its smaller but more famous sister, is a tight-knit community of cowboys and academics and artists set amid one of the most stirring landscapes in the…
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